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EAT GURNARD

Gurnard is an odd (or, to be less charitable, ugly) looking fish: slightly bulging eyes atop a pointed snout wearing a sulky pout. It is perhaps these aesthetic qualities, combined with a skeleton not designed for easy filleting, that accounts for it's relative culinary obscurity.

However Gurnard is well-endowed with tasty meaty flesh - think haddock crossed with monkfish - and is a very versatile fish for cooking with. The last few years have seen some signs of increased interest in the fish thanks, in part, to endorsements by high-profile chefs. How long before this cheap, sustainable species is over-priced and over-fished?

HISTORY

For much of the last few decades, gurnard catches have routinely been either discarded by fisherman or used for baiting lobster pots. Some fish found their way, anonymously, into fish stocks and stews.

The increasing awareness of seafood sustainability issues, partly fuelled by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's 'Fish Fight' campaign in the UK, seems to be helping to make gurnard a less rare sight on fishmongers' slabs and restaurant menus in the last few years.

BIOLOGY

Gurnard are members of the Triglidae (sea robins) family. There are three main species - red (Aspitrigla cuculus), grey (Eutrigla gurnardus) and yellow or tub (Chelidonicthys lucerna).

They feed on crustaceans and smaller bottom-dwelling fishes which they uncover by disturbing the seabed with their fan-like fins.

TIPS

BUYING

Not generally stocked by supermarkets, you'll probably need to find a decent fishmonger to track down a gurnard. As descaling and filleting are a bit trickier than your average fish you may want to ask your fishmonger to prepare the fish to your requirements.

Red gurnard are probably the most frequently encountered species but they're not noteably superior in eating qualities to the grey or tub gurnard.

Use the Good Fish Guide to make better informed choices when buying seafood.

STORING

As with all fish gurnard is best cooked and eaten the day you buy it, but a fresh specimen will be fine in the fridge for a couple of days. They also freeze well.

PREPARING

Gurnard generally work well in any recipe calling for firm-fleshed white fish such as haddock or monkfish: roasting, stewing, barbecuing, pan-frying or deep-frying will all do the job nicely.

Gurnard is excellent in a fish curry and the head and bones make a good fish stock.

MISCELLANY

Gurnard are able to make a grunting sound which they use to communicate. Their name is likely to derive from the Old French gornard - 'grunter' - from the Latin grunnire.